Mihonoseki ― In the beginning, there have been Shinto rituals in the Izumo region, the eastern part of Shimane Prefecture. These sacred practices are the essence of Izumo, a place where spirituality and tradition weave the fabric of everyday life. Without Shinto rites or Matsuri, Izumo would lose its identity. While it is often said that the Japanese are non-religious, this notion does not apply to the region. Here, the air is thick with reverence and ancient customs.
Among these customs, one peculiar tradition stands out: the people of Mihonoseki, who are responsible for carrying out Shinto rituals, abstain from eating chicken and eggs. According to legend, the local god lost his love due to a chicken. It is believed that this god, in his sorrow, now possesses the power to deflect typhoons before they enter Izumo, protecting the land and its people.
Shinto thus shapes the belief system of Izumo’s residents, deeply influencing their way of life. About 130 years ago, Lafcadio Hearn, a great writer, once expounded that the Izumo region was the province of Japan’s gods and that Matsue was its capital.
On the 3rd of December, the people of Mihonoseki Fishing Hamlet gathered at the Miho Shrine, in the vicinity of Matsue City, to reenact an important event in their country’s history called The Morotabune Shinto Ritual. The morning was bleak and cloudy, but as the clock neared 1:40 pm and the ritual was about to begin, the skies turned a faint blue. The shrine’s precincts enhanced the divine atmosphere, designated as a sanctuary of the gods by sacred shimenawa ropes, and the majestic purple curtains dyed with imperial chrysanthemum crests. Mist rose from the hills surrounding the shrine, signifying that Izumo is indeed the province of the gods. At the same time, a ferryboat navigating off the harbour sounded a loud whistle as if paying homage to the shrine.
Mihonoseki is situated at the eastern end of the Shimane Peninsula, approximately three hours away from Tokyo (Haneda Airport) by public transport. The journey involves a 1.5-hour flight from Haneda Airport to Yonago Airport with All Nippon Air (ANA), followed by a 20-minute ride on the JR Sakaiminato line or a bus to Sakaiminato Station. From Sakaiminato Station, visitors can transfer to the Mihonoseki Community Bus, heading towards Ui Ferry Landing Stage, for a 10-minute journey. Finally, a 10-minute bus ride from Ui Ferry Landing Stage will bring visitors to Mihonoseki. Total roundtrip costs are around 70,000 yen (excluding hotel charges).
The Morotabune Shinto Ritual is a reenactment of a scene from the Kojiki, or Records of Ancient Matters of Japan. One day, Okuninushi, who dwelled in Izumo, was requested to cede his land to Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess enshrined in Ise and considered an ancestor of the imperial family today. Okuninushi entrusted his child, Kotoshironushi, known as Ebisu, to decide whether they should give their ruled land to the Sun Goddess. Thus, Okuninushi dispatched his representatives to Miho Shrine, where his child lived, by sea, to ask whether this concession should be accepted or rejected. The Shinto drama tells this ancient story.
Local residents played the role of messengers of this great national deity. After the initiation ceremony, they changed from kamishimo, the traditional ceremonial dress of the warrior class, into ancient costumes and boarded two boats called morotabune, which means to row with many hands. Two divisions of 18 members—each comprising nine men, one officer called Touya, one staff officer, one helmsman, and six rowers per boat—descended to the harbour from the shrine’s grounds, wearing white attire and blue trousers reminiscent of ancient uniforms. Each bow was adorned with a wooden-made sacred Macca Sword. At Touya’s command, the mooring men let go of the ropes, and the boats started to move vigorously towards the harbour mouth with the rowers’ calls of yah-yah.
The boats competitively headed to the Maroudo Sha Shinto Shrine, dedicated to Okuninushi at the harbour mouth. Upon arrival in front of the shrine, the two Touya presented the wooden swords to the master deity of the Izumo province as a mark of respect. The boats then briskly altered their course to return to the starting point, and the rowers exuberantly splashed cold water on each other at the front of the pier. Upon coming alongside the land, the boat captains dashed competitively to the shrine’s gate to dedicate the sacred swords.
Once the Touyas were back on the boats, the entire crew saluted the chief priest representing Kotoshironushi, the main deity of Miho Shrine. The chief priest returned the salute, chanting the Shinto Mantra, taka-sando, and praying the Shinto sutra, which signified Kotoshironushi’s acceptance of Amaterasu’s request, bringing peace to the land of Izumo. Without his wise decision, fierce hostilities between ancient Izumo and Ise might have erupted.
This event placed Izumo under Ise’s rule and made it part of the imperial line, symbolised by the chrysanthemum crest of Miho Shrine. (Izumo accepted this concession and, as a token of gratitude from the Ise side, Izumo Taisha is said to have been erected). Despite this integration, Izumo retained a generous degree of autonomy, embodying the spirit of harmony and tolerance that defines the essence of the Japanese state.
After the ceremony’s highlight, the boats set sail again, circling in the bay and splashing cold water on each other, thus completing the Shinto rite. This story continues with the annual Aofushigaki Shinto Ritual, which takes place in the first week of April.
(Words by Takashi Saito)
How to Get to Mihonoseki
Address: 608 Mihonoseki, Mihonoseki-cho, Matsue-shi, Shimane-Prefecture
By Rental Car (Recommended)
It takes approximately 40 minutes from JR Matsue Station to Mihonoseki via Route 431 and prefectural road 2.
By Bus
Board the Ichibata Bus bound for the Mihonoseki Bus Terminal (45 minutes).
Transfer to the Mihonoseki Community Bus Mihonoseki Line and get off at the “Mihonoseki” bus stop (30 minutes).
Remark: You are required to understand Japanese if you choose this way.