Shimane Prefecture is widely known as the mythical birthplace of sake. According to Japan’s oldest historical text, the Kojiki, a brave deity, once defeated a fearsome, eight-headed serpent (Yamata no Orochi) by first intoxicating it with sake brewed in the region. Since then, sake has not merely been viewed as a drink but as a sacred offering—an essential means of communing with the gods.
In the heart of Matsue, the capital of Shimane, this ancient spirit lives on. On 12 April, Rihaku Shuzo (RIHAKU Sake Brewing Company) held its annual kura biraki—a traditional spring opening of the sake storehouse—to welcome guests from near and far. Visitors enjoyed sake tastings, regional cuisine, and the stirring beat of taiko drums performed by the Ishibashi San-chome Do troupe in a lively, festive atmosphere.
Set in the historic district of Ishibashi-cho, the brewery enjoys abundant pure water drawn from local wells that have never run dry. Many of these old wells remain, and their pristine quality makes them suitable for sake brewing and crafting other regional specialities such as soy sauce, bean curd, and buckwheat noodles. The charming tiled roofs, latticed windows, and striking white-walled Rihaku Shuzo’s storehouses evoke a sense of enduring tradition and lend a quiet dignity.
Founded in 1882, Rihaku Shuzo is steeped in heritage and remains a respected name in Shimane’s sake-making legacy.
‘I was hoping this kura biraki would encourage more people to appreciate our sake and realise that the brewery has always been a part of the community, ’ said President Yuuichiro Tanaka.
(Yuuichiro Tanaka: The President of Rihaku Shuzo)
Rihaku Shuzo’s diverse sake range reflects both reverence for tradition and a flair for modern convenience. From daiginjo, brewed with Yamada Nishiki sake rice polished to 45%, which offers a dry sake with a mellow aroma and a crisp aftertaste, to junmai sold in travel-friendly pouches—made from nothing but rice, water, and koji mould—there is something to suit every taste and occasion. The pouches, particularly, have become popular among campers and rail passengers. Other standout sake is Special Junmai Dry Kuchi Yamata no Orochi, inspired by the legendary myth. These sakes are crafted from high-quality sake rice.
The brewery’s name pays tribute to Rihaku (known originally from China as Li Bai), the legendary Chinese poet of the Tang dynasty, famous for composing exquisite verses while drinking prodigious amounts of sake. The name was bestowed by Baron Reijiro Wakatsuki, a former Prime Minister of Japan and Matsue native, who also designed the distinctive Rihaku logo, which is still used today.
‘All Chinese people know the name Rihaku, and I think it’s a very tasteful name for a sake brewery, ’ says Chenglu Peng, a coordinator for International Relations at Matsue City Hall from China.
Evidence of this can be seen on the T-shirts and jumpers worn by employees, which are inscribed with the phrase “The poet Rihaku would drink a big bottle of sake and write a hundred poems in both English translation and the original Chinese text.” This homage to Rihaku adds a unique and personal touch to the brewery’s identity, blending its rich history with contemporary culture.
Today, approximately 40% of Rihaku’s production is exported to 15 foreign countries, including the United States, China, Hong Kong, Australia, and Thailand. Its reputation for excellence has travelled far—some of its sake was even brought to the 1930 London Naval Conference and delivered to a Japanese base in Antarctica.
In fact, Japan’s sake exports continued growing in 2024, reaching new heights in value and volume. According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, Japan’s total sake export value in 2024 reached ¥43.47 billion (approximately USD 290 million), marking a 5.8% increase year-on-year (105.8% compared to the previous year). Export volume totalled 31,056 KL, representing a 6.4% increase (106.4% year-on-year), based on the Ministry of Finance Trade Statistics compiled by the association.
‘Expanding overseas consumption is important, but moving forward, I want more young people in Japan to enjoy sake,’ said Tanaka.
With one dō of sake, Rihaku composed a hundred poems. Every drop poured at Rihaku Shuzo is more than a drink — it’s a story, waiting to be savoured.
(Words by Takashi Saito)
🚉 Visiting Rihaku Shuzo
There are several travel options for visiting the brewery:
- By air: Take a two-hour flight with JAL from Haneda to Izumo Airport, then a 35-minute bus to JR Matsue Station. The return fare is roughly ¥70,000.
- By sleeper train: The Sunrise Izumo offers a scenic 12-hour overnight journey for around ¥55,000 return.
- By Shinkansen: Travel via Okayama and transfer to the Limited Express Yakumo. The journey takes about six hours and costs around ¥50,000 with a Japan Rail Pass.
- By bus: From JR Matsue Station, catch a local bus bound for Daigaku Kawatsu and alight at Kitahori or Ishibashi Sanchome.
335 Ishibashi-cho, Matsue, Shimane 690-0881