Okuizumo area ― The prominent 19th-century British writer Isabella Bird visited East Japan and wrote Unbeaten Tracks in Japan. Had she explored West Japan, she might have focused on the Okuizumo area, which encompasses Unnan and Okuizumo cities, and Iinan town in Shimane Prefecture. This region boasts pristine and picturesque landscapes, much like how Europeans who visited Japan in the 19th century described the scenery as if fairies inhabited the country. Nestled in the Chugoku Mountains, the area preserves the authentic beauty of Japan. Had Hiroshima city served as the capital of Japan during that time, it could have evolved into a summer resort for diplomats and their families from Western countries, much like Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture, which Bird cherished.
The Okuizumo area is conveniently located just a 1.5-hour flight from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Hiroshima Airport, followed by a 90-minute drive along expressways and Route 54. The rugged peaks that line the horizon are hard to miss. For those seeking a more leisurely journey, a 6-hour trip aboard the Shinkansen, local railways, and a bus from Tokyo Station to this off-the-beaten-path destination via Hiroshima offers an opportunity to savour the scenic beauty.
This hidden jewel of Japan boasts a rich cultural heritage featuring traditional crafts such as Japanese paper-making, sacred straw rope production, and fruit cultivation.
Hiikawa washi, which has over 200 years of tradition in Unnan city, is renowned for its thin yet beautiful texture and durability. It is used for signature drawing paper, letterheads, envelopes, business cards, tapestries, and bags. All processes are meticulously handled by craftsman Mr. Shingi Idani, who oversees everything from the raw materials—such as gampi (雁皮), kozo (楮), and mitsumata (三椏)—to the finished paper. Visitors can try to make Hiikawa washi paper under Mr. Idani’s guidance, as he enjoys interacting with visitors. Communication is not a problem, as a local guide provides English interpretation. Why not send a card from high-quality Japanese paper this Christmas to commemorate your visit to one of Japan’s hidden gems?
Iinan town, situated at the base of the Chugoku Mountains and adjacent to Hiroshima Prefecture, serves as a hub for producing sacred straw ropes, known as shimenawa. These ropes are offered not only to the Izumo Grand Shrine, the second most prestigious Shinto shrine after Ise, but also to countless shrines nationwide and one in Hawaii. The large sacred straw rope for the Izumo Grand Shrine measures 13.6 metres in width and weighs 5.2 tonnes. Shimenawa plays a vital role in Japanese culture and community. At the local museum, visitors of all faiths can try making these sacred ropes, allowing them to establish spiritual boundaries in their own spaces.
Iinan town is also recognised for its fruit cultivation. Visitors can enjoy blueberry picking from early August to early September and apple picking from September to mid-November. Guests can bring a packed lunch, making it ideal for an elegant picnic in this beautiful mountain village in Japan.
Tucked away in a hamlet in Iinan town, Hoshi no Yadori offers a secluded retreat where guests can fully immerse themselves in the tranquil atmosphere of rural Japan. This stylish Japanese inn, set in a beautifully renovated house that once belonged to the village headman and is over 150 years old, accommodates up to eight guests across three tatami mat rooms and one wooden room. Guests can savour meals featuring locally grown vegetables, enhancing the authentic experience. The magical sight of fireflies dancing alongside the stars on summer nights creates an enchanting atmosphere. Nearby, Ramune Onsen, one of Japan’s leading carbonated hot springs, is renowned for its skin-brightening properties, with private baths available for families and individuals.
The Okuizumo area is secluded and distinct from Japan’s metropolitan regions, allowing visitors to experience moments of tranquillity and elegance while enjoying nature and the warmth of the local people. It is the perfect place for those looking to escape overtourism. The Okuizumo area could be your Unbeaten Tracks in Japan.
(This article is written in collaboration with TAVIKALA Co., Ltd)